Jewellery Metals Guide
Buying Different Metal Types
When purchasing a piece of jewellery, deciding on the right type of metal can be tricky. To ensure the ring bracelet or necklace will continue to look its very best for years to come, you’ll need to consider where, when, and how the piece will be worn. Will the recipient wear the item everyday, and so will need something durable and resilient, or will it be a piece for only the most special occasions, and so need to resist tarnish whilst in storage? Are their tastes more traditional, or contemporary? Do they prefer delicate and fine pieces, or something more chunky to make a statement?
What is Metal Carat?
Gold is hallmarked 375, so has 375 parts of pure gold (37.5%), with the rest comprising of other metal alloys. 9ct gold is a very durable metal, so is perfect for everyday wear. As it has the lowest volume of pure gold it is also the most cost-effective option for gold jewellery.
Gold is hallmarked 585 and therefore has 585 parts per thousand of pure gold. It is the preferred metal in America and mainland Europe. Its higher gold content puts it in the middle of the most popular gold qualities (durability, cost, color) but as it is not commonly used in the UK, it can actually work out slightly more expensive as items usually need to be custom-made or imported.
Gold has the highest content of pure gold that you will find on the high street. There are 750 parts per 1000 and it is hallmarked 750. This provides a rich yellow or rose color due to its high gold content. It is also very durable and ideal for pieces such as engagement rings or wedding bands, which will be worn daily.
Gold is hallmarked 916 (91.6% gold content), so is the purest form of gold available in jewellery. The small percentage left over is usually mixed with copper or silver. Due to its high gold content it is very yellow in color and is quite popular in Indian jewellery.
Yellow Gold
Gold in its natural form is a rich yellow colour, but pure gold is too soft to be wearable and so it is mixed with other alloys to make it last a lifetime. Most commonly, gold is mixed with silver and copper for yellow gold, but these can vary in content from different sources, so some can appear more yellow than other items of the same fineness.
Yellow gold doesn’t have any plating, and is therefore the same colour all the way through. This means it can be polished thoroughly without the risk of removing its colour, and so is easy to keep looking as good as new for years.
Rose Gold
Rose gold (or pink gold as it can be known) provides an attractive vintage feel to jewellery and has made a resurgence in the last few years. Its warm colour is created by alloying the pure gold with copper. Like yellow gold, rose gold is the same colour all the way through (not plated) and so can easily be polished to look as good as new.
Pros: Looks great on most skin tones and is easily maintained
Cons: Has a high copper content which may cause slight skin reactions
White Gold
To make the metal as white as possible, the naturally yellow gold is mixed with whiter metals, like silver, palladium, and zinc. Historically, it was mixed with a high content of nickel, but since 1994 in compliance with EU law, this has ceased. This is something to be aware of when buying vintage jewellery, especially if you have a nickel allergy.
Platinum
Platinum has grown in popularity over the last decade and is showing no sign of slowing down! The majority of our engagement rings are made from platinum as it is a very hard-wearing metal, so it will still look beautiful, even when subjected to daily wear and tear.
Platinum is one of the most precious metals on the planet, as well as being very dense, malleable, and ductile. Platinum is also highly unreactive, which means it won’t tarnish like sterling silver when exposed to the air. We only stock platinum in the 950 grade, meaning the piece will be 95% pure platinum.
Although platinum is a very durable metal, it is not indestructible. It can be scratched and can also be misshapen through daily wear. These can however be remedied fairly easily. Platinum can be easily polished back to its original beauty, and over time, will develop an attractive patina. Because of platinum’s desirable qualities, it is reflected in the price, and you will find, gram for gram, platinum is considerably more expensive than gold.
Silver
Silver is the most cost-effective precious metal that is readily available in the UK. Sterling silver is an alloy metal, meaning it contains 92.5% pure silver, mixed with 7.5% other metals (usually copper). There are different fineness levels for silver, but Sterling Silver is the most commonly available. Silver is a very easy metal to work with and so can be manipulated into many different designs, from plain rings to intricate necklaces, to solid chunky bangles. It is a softer metal than the other precious metals, and so is not the most suitable choice for engagement rings or wedding rings. Silver can quite easily be bashed out of shape.
